New on Fifth Avenue South in Naples: Tres chic, sultry and stunning Le Colonial opens Dec. 14
When one of the grand dames of shelter magazines anoints your restaurant among the world’s 20 most beautiful, how do you top that?
For Le Colonial’s partners Rick Wahlstadt and Joe King, you up the ante by opening a new locale on one of Naples' most iconic streets.
Their newest spot debuts Dec. 14 on Fifth Avenue South. Wahlstadt believes the look of this location tops the one in Atlanta that made Veranda’s list. Both were designed by Knauer, the Chicago-based architecture, interior design and engineering firm who are no strangers to Naples, having created Del Mar across the street.
“Fifth Avenue is a pristine and beautiful culinary destination, and we designed the restaurant to reflect the sophistication of the Naples market,” said King.
And while hotel décor often influences home interiors, this might be the first Naples restaurant exuding exotic and luxe vacation vibes that guests want to emulate in their own abodes, especially the sexy lounge.
It’s that gorgeous.
As someone who worked at the public relations firm that opened the first Le Colonial in New York City in 1993, my jaw dropped when walking in. The design, always so chic, has evolved and is even more inviting and sexy.
Thirty years ago, Le Colonial was the first restaurant to make lounge dining the "in" thing to do. In Naples, I suspect it may become the most coveted "see and be seen" area in town with a dedicated small plates menu priced from $16 to $24.
Not a square inch is ignored, layering high-style tactile touches from floor to ceiling.
The first transporting accent is the Klimt-inspired gold leaf at the door, hand-painted by Swedish artist Jonas Wickman, whose bold murals envelop each dining space inside and out.
From custom silk and brass hanging lights crafted in Paris to guest-controlled dimmable table-top lamps, the lighting is so well thought-out that everything ― and everyone ― glows in a flattering way.
Related: Exotic elegance in Naples: New Fifth Avenue South game-changing restaurant sets opening
What to eat
When everything sounds so tempting, how to decide what to order during your first visit?
If you’ve not visited the outposts in Houston, Chicago, or Atlanta, try the classics as originally created back in 1993 by best-selling cookbook author and chef Nicole Routhier, who helmed the kitchen at Le Colonial’s first restaurant in New York City.
These dishes are executed magnificently in Naples by Executive Chef Moosah Reaume, whose resume is peppered with senior cheffing positions at Mandarin Oriental properties and various Jean-Georges Vongerichten restaurants.
I spotted a few famous faces in the crowd who frequented the original location, and they also ordered quite a few classics.
It’s all about balance ― a little bit of this and that. And though we were a party of two, there wasn’t more than a bite left of fish among the dishes tried. The food is fantastic ― satisfying yet not heavy.
Also, this reporter isn’t fluent in Vietnamese. Chances are, dear reader, you’re not either, hence our list of suggestions for your first visit with the English translation added.
Sui Cao Chien: Six pan-seared chicken dumplings that you won’t want to share; they’re so good.
Goi Du Du: A zesty, refreshing green papaya salad with hints of red curry in the dressing.
Bo Luc Lac: A Le Colonial classic since day one in 1993, and noted as “Shaking Beef,” caramelized bites of Heritage Angus with oodles of lightly cooked fresh vegetables and greens. If I knew my last day on earth was forthcoming, this would be a fitting last meal.
Ca Tim Nuong: A great side to accompany the beef, this eggplant dish is tossed with scallion oil and crispy shallot, heavenly dressed in a sauce with a kicky nuance.
Ca Chien Saigon: This market-priced crispy red snapper is filleted tableside. A sight to behold and better to eat. The dish is most fun taco-style: use the butter lettuce leaves as a fold for the fish and jasmine rice, with a small spoonful of sauce to top it. A tad messy, but oh-so delicious.
Che Chuoi: A dessert classic pudding with pearls of organic tapioca infused with hints of banana. Lovely.
The only dish not needing translation? A very Instagrammable, showstopping raspberry souffle with “Caribbean coconut” ice cream on the side. Expect a few oohs and ahhs with the tableside presentation.
Le Colonial looks like money; a tidy sum to experience it properly is helpful. Appetizers range from $15 for salads and shrimp rolls to $34 for green curry shrimp soup; main courses from $31 to $95, including two meant to share; dessert, $15; cocktails from $18 to $30; wine and beer available.
You'll need reservations too, because it will likely be the toughest to score in town. The restaurant opens at 4 p.m. for dinner; lunch service is planned for January.
(457 Fifth Ave. S., Naples; 239-372-9700; naples.leconial.com)
This article originally appeared on Naples Daily News: New Naples restaurants: 5th Ave South's sexiest spot Le Colonial opens
